A little quote...

"The only place the mind will ever find peace is inside the silence of the heart."

Elizabeth Gilbert

Bisous,
Henri

Photo taken in the Grand Hall at Chenonceau,  Cher River, France

Up in the clouds...

One of my favorite things to do when I get to Paris is visit Galeries Lafayette.  Not only is this "grand magasin" a fabulous shopping mecca; but, it also offers one of the most panoramic views of the city.

 Take the elevator to the top of the building and prepare to be blown away!  On this particular day last June, the clouds were streaming by the majestic Palais Garnier.  What an impressive vantage point to view this iconic building!

The Paris Opera was commissioned in 1860 by Napoleon III.  Architect Charles Garnier was selected to build an opera house that would reflect the opulence of the Second Empire.  Great composers, allegorical figures representing spirits of music and dance, as well as voluptuous nudes grace the facade and exterior of the building.  (The nudes actually caused quite a scandal when they were unveiled back in the day.)  This view is technically the rear of the opera.

A few steps to the left of the view of the opera, the  Eiffel Tower can be seen in the distance.  Standing on the roof and looking out over the vast landscape of Paris, I am struck with awe and reverence.  So much beauty, history, turbulence, and energy intersects in this one spot before my eyes.  It is a wonderful opportunity to reflect on all that was, is, and will be in this magnificent city.


A bientôt,
Henri

Le Caveau des Oubliettes...

Definition of Oubliette:  a secret dungeon with a trapdoor in the ceiling where persons are condemned to perpetual imprisonment, to perish secretly

On the corner of rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre and the narrow, historic Rue Galande, there sits a curious little bar, Le Caveau des Oubliettes, Le Guillotine Bar. In another lifetime, this dimly lit bar served as a  holding place for the unfortunate prisoners during the time of The Revolution (1793).  Those who were  thrown down into Le Caveau (The Cave) were awaiting their meeting with the newly developed trademark of the Revolution, Le Guillotine.  The thick walls of the stairwell and heavy trap door covering Le Caveau helped obscure the wails and howling of the prisoners.

Coming in off the street,  you will find a darkly lit, atmospheric bar and beyond the bar lies the staircase where you will descend into "Le Caveau des Oubliettes"...the cave of the forgotten.  The walls are decorated  with heavy chains, handcuffs, and a barred window...reminders of the room's past.

The space below is cramped with only twelve wooden tables.  Here a jazz or blues band performs into the night. When the doors open at 10 pm. there is always a  mad dash of people heading for the stairwell leading downstairs to the entertainment.  It is a one of the more unique ways to experience music and a piece of history at once.

It is nice to know that this historic relic in history has survived!

A bientôt,
Henri

Le Train Bleu...

"It wasn't until I arrived in Paris that I realized I was starving for grandeur."

"On a frosty January evening in 1975, I lugged my much loathed tweed-sided American Tourister suitcase up the staircase leading to Le Train Bleu after reading in Let's Go Europe that it overlooked the main hall of the station (Gare de Lyon) and was one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world.  I couldn't afford to eat there; but, the guidebook tipped me off that I could at least afford a coffee."

"Coming through the doors, I was stunned by a vision of the nineteenth-century opulence that had made Paris the envy of the world.  Waiters in black tie and fitted black waistcoats, most of them with mustaches, raced through the room bearing trays overhead..."

"My coffee came and when I noticed a tiny chocolate wrapped in gold foil on the edge of the saucer, my heart melted.  So this was Paris, a place where a pauper could become a prince for a few francs.  When I dug into my pocket for a cigarette, I was startled by sulfur and looked up to find that the bartender with the pencil mustache and finely oiled streaks of hair stretched over his bald dome was waiting to light my smoke.  'C'est magnifique, Le Train Bleu, n'est ce pas?'  he said with a grin."

Today as I was looking at several new books that I had set aside, I came across this description of the restaurant Le Train Bleu, written by Alexander Lobrano in his book, Hungry for Paris, The Ultimate Guide to the City's 102 Best Restaurants.  I really fell hard for the sentence, "a place where a pauper could become a prince for a few francs."  Who doesn't want to feel like a prince (or a princess) on occasion?  And, I could totally relate to the sheer grandeur of the restaurant.

I hope you enjoyed this little journey into Le Train Bleu as much as I did.  This past June I was staying very near to Gare de Lyon, if only I had known...I could have walked over for a cup of coffee...

Bisous,

Henri

All photos courtesy of Google Images

L'Hotel Le Lauzun

Located on the Ile St. Louis is this lovely old hotel (home) at #17 quai d' Anjou.  During the 17th century, a wealthy owner built this elaborate home with the decorative balcony and fish drainpipes.  The inside panelling was gilded and painted with the same flourish as the exterior. Above the door the inscription reads, Hotel de Lauzun, 1657.  During the 19th century, the aristocracy moved to Versailles and the home fell on harder times, becoming a laundry.  Fortunately, the owner stored the panelling in a cellar and it was rescued and restored to its former glory at a later date.

At one point in the history of this property, the famous 19th century literary figure, Charles Baudelaire lived here on the ground floor from October 1843 to September 1845. While living here he took hashish with Theophile Gautier and friends, founding Club des Hachischins (other memebers included Rilke, Sickert and Wagner). It was here that Baudelaire fell madly in love with his mixed race mistress, Jeanne Duval, and wrote poetry prolifically... creating what would later become Les Fieurs du Mal.

Baudelaire rarely lived at one address for such a long period of time during his life (1821-1867). He actually lived at 45 different addresses in Paris, not including a few dives where he would bolt and lodge to avoid his creditors, which was often.

L'Hotel Lauzun is now owned by the city of Paris, where it is used for receptions and honorary guests. It is a wonderful gesture that the grandeur of the home can once more be appreciated.

This is a particularly beautiful area on the quai de Anjou and the residence next door, the Hotel Lambert, is equally elegant and famous...just another small snippet of history waiting to be discovered. 

Enjoy your stroll...A bientot!

Henri

Notre Dame in Silhouette...

Each time I return to Paris, I always take one evening and go on a dinner cruise.  I don't think that there is a better or more romantic way to see the City of Light than by boarding a dinner cruiser.  This short evening adventure will create an opportunity for  you to sit back while sipping champagne, dine on a first class meal, and view the historic, illuminated landmarks along the Seine. 

Imagine an evening filled with elegance and romance...a time to relax and allow all possibilities to unfold. Truly, this is a feast for the senses.

Bonne nuit mes amours,
Henri

I recommend Bateau Parisiens.

The Rue de Seine...

At the intersection of Rue de Seine and  Rue de Bucci, I came across the most amazing work of graffiti...I thought it was rather stunning and I was completely amazed by the street rendition of Einstein, The Beatles with face paint to resemble Kiss, and the woman with the tattoo on her back.  I actually saw one woman artist finishing up some work on the wall...
                                                                                 the date was October 2010.

Almost a year later, June 2011,  I returned to the spot of this great street art to see what had happened in the past year.  To my surprise, the old graffiti had been removed and a woman's face had replaced Einstein, The Beatles, and The Shirtless Woman.  I actually preferred the drawing from 2010; however, this corner seems to be an equal opportunity canvas.

After doing a little research on Rue de Seine, I discovered that the street was famous for graffiti!  The anti capitalist, Guy Debord had famously scrawled on the wall in 1953:  "Ne travaillez jamais."  (Don't ever work.)  Apparently these walls have been  sacred to graffiti artists through the ages!

Here I sat at the little cafe looking out at the intersection of Rue de Bucci and Rue de Seine, contemplating all the history that has taken place on this bustling corner of Paris.  I am always amazed that where ever you may be in Paris, there is a little story, a little lesson in history waiting to be discovered!

A bientot,

Henri